The first weekend in December, I ventured out to the Picos de Europa, courtesy of cousin Jorge and his wife Marivi. It was a grand day, full of nature and surprises.
The Picos is a compact range in the Cantabrian Mountains, just inland to the east of Avilés, and the mostly-limestone peaks stretch across parts of Asturias, Cantabria and Castile. They are one of the wonders of this part of Spain. When we got our first full glimpse of them, I felt like I was back in Südtirol. Our destination was Fuente Dé, in the western-most part of the Picos in Cantabria. We could not have asked for more perfect weather, bracingly cold and clear blue skies. It even had snowed that week in the high altitudes. Though our planned hike was abbreviated - we did not have gear for tromping through knee-deep snow - we were more than compensated by the magnificent winter vistas.
After wending our way inland on a narrow road snaking through the steep foothills, we got our first full look at the Picos as we passed through the medieval town of Potes, which now is a major center of hiking and mountaineering. We stopped for a photo, and I noticed this statue of a Camino de Santiago pilgrim just across the road.
Los Picos at Fuente Dé
We caught the Teleférico de Fuente Dé (constructed in 1966, 1450m long, 753m ascent) up to the plateau.
Marivi and Jorge, at the visitor's center on the upper end of the Teleférico
We were determined to get at least a little hiking, as far as we could in the snow, and headed off across the plateau.
Marivi had brought pinchos for a snack for us, and we stopped here, with a lovely view of Peña Vieja (2614m), to eat them before heading back toward the Teleférico.
Back down to where the trees grow.
The first surprise (though it should not have been). As usual, Jorge had found a perfect place for our late lunch: the restaurant Vicente Campo in the nearby hamlet of Espinama. It was perfect, with thick stone walls, beamed ceilings, excellent traditional local food, and this view from the upper dining room.
After stuffing ourselves with enough food to fuel a Picos shepherd for a couple days, we took a stroll around Espinama, which looks as if it were carved from the hilltop. Vicente Campo is in the uppermost building on the right.
The second surprise of the day: the preromanesque Church of Santa María de Lebeña, one of the oldest churches in Cantabria. Marivi and I went in for the very detailed tour of the starkly beautiful interior. Unfortunately, no photos allowed, so it is another thing you will have to come to Asturias to see!
The third surprise. We headed off the motorway - not long after rejoining it when we emerged from the Picos - and stopped at this coastal viewing point, just east of the town of Llanes.
And then the fourth surprise. We spent a couple hours meandering around Llanes, which was founded in the 13th century and is as pleasing a spot as I ever have visited. Ancient and lovely. I certainly must return there for a day (at least) in the spring.
The port.
Plaza de Cimadevilla, in the medieval quarter.
Plaza de Santa Ana (through the passageway behind Marivi in the photo above). The salmonish-colored building is the Palacio de Gastaña. It is the oldest non-clerical building in the town, dating from the 14th century.
Capilla de Santa Ana (15th century), on the other side of the square, opposite the Palacio.
A palacio on the Calle Mayor, leaving the Plaza de Santa Ana.
Santa María del Conceyu Basilica (13th-15th centuries).
And the Camino runs through the town.
The medieval watch tower, decorated for Christmas.
This is lovely
ReplyDeletebeyond amazing Scott
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