Compostela

After spending a good, long time at the Cathedral, I went to the Pilgrim Office, presented my Credencíal (on which pilgrims get stamps from places they stop along the way, to verify that they have walked), and received my Compostela, certifying that I had completed the Camino. Walking the Camino was the most profound experience of my life.

My Compostela, Credencíal and Scallop Shell (from the old lady in Arzúa)

Santiago de Compostela

27.4.2013

I spent an extra day to rest, explore and enjoy Santiago, and wished immediately that I had longer. It quickly became one of my favorite places I ever have visited, and before I left, I was eager to return.

The Cathedral in early morning, from my room, after dawn's torrential rains had passed. 

Seminario Mayor.

Praza de Cervantes.

The Cathedral, Azabachería façade, from Praza da Inmaculada.

Rainbow behind Palacio de Rajoy (Casa do Concello), from Praza do Obradoiro.

Berenguela (the Cathedral clock tower) from Praza da Quintana.

Palacio de Rajoy (Casa do Concello)

Porta Santa (the Holy Door) on Praza da Quintana. At top, Santiago and his disciples, Athanasius and Theodore. Flanking the door, sculptures of 24 apostles and prophets (which originally were in the medieval stone choir of the Cathedral).

 

Camino way marker 0, in the middle of Praza do Obradoiro.

Entrance to a little church on Rúa da Caldeiraía where I stopped in while looking for a good place for a cafe con leche. Santiago rises a little late on Saturday morning.

And then I found a perfect cafe spot, Cerverceria Rúa Bella, on Rúa Nova.

The view across Rúa Nova.

Rúa Nova.

Praza do Toural.

La Iglesia de Santa María Salomé (12th century).

At noon, I attended the pilgrim's mass at the Cathedral, because I had arrived in town the day before after the mass had ended. There were two surprises. First, I was expecting to see the Botafumeiro - when the giant censor (between the columns to the left in the first photo below) is swung through the transepts (the frame from which it is suspended when swinging is in the second photo below) - but they did not swing it; I learned later that it only is used during the regular mass on particular holy days, or if arranged in advance (and for a fee). But the mass was so lovely and moving that I really was not even disappointed about the Botafumeiro, particularly given the second surprise. I did not know that the priest reads off the number of pilgrims who have received their Compostela since the previous day's mass, and he notes the places from which they came. I wept again when I heard, "Un peregrino desde los Estados Unidos y Alemania" - I was the only one from the US (nationality) and Germany (residence).

One last visit to Praza do Obradoiro after dinner.

Camino Primitivo - Etapa 12, Lavacolla to Santiago de Compostela

26.4.2013

12.3km

Medieval pilgrims used to stop in the river at Lavacolla to bathe before their arrival in Santiago (the name of the town translates "wash scrotum"). I washed all my parts, though not in the river, and headed out with mixed feelings for the final, short day of my Camino.

Un peregrino asturiana

Between Lavacolla and Monte de Gozo.

Capilla de San Marcos, leaving Monte de Gozo. The last town, and final sello (pilgrim credencíal stamp) before Santiago.

Sculpture of medieval pilgrims, near Capilla de San Marcos, hailing their first glimpse of Santiago. The three little spires off the left elbow of the front pilgrim are Santiago Cathedral, 4km away.

Pavement way marker in the new part of Santiago. It is a long walk back through the centuries to medieval Santiago.

Rúa Ruela de Ánimas

Capela das Ánimas (Chapel of the Souls), completed in 1784. Financed by donations for the souls in Purgatory (ergo, the bas relief on the façade).

The way I entered, along Rúa da Acibechería and across Praza da Inmaculada, goes down broad stone stairs through a Gothic passageway that emerges into Praza do Obradoiro, where the Cathedral stands. I crossed the square, and stood here, beneath the arcade of the Casa do Concello, looking at the Cathedral and weeping.

Ascending to the Cathdral entrance.

I sat here in the nave for a long time.

One of the apse chapels, with the cross of the Caballeros de la Orden de Santiago on the shell.

The tomb of Santiago.

Santiago Matamoros in the transept.

Papal plaque above Santiago Matamoros.

Doorway of the Colexio de San Xerome, on Praza do Obradoiro.

Rùa de Raiña.

View of the Cathedral from the skylight of my excellent little 38€ attic room at Pension Badalada. When the bells rang, it sounded like I was in the belfry.

Praza das Platerías.

Courtyard off Rùa do Franco.

 

My street, Rúa de Xelmírez.

My guidebook said most pilgrims find themselves drawn back to Praza do Obradoiro and the Cathedral again and again, and that certainly was the case for me. 

Berenguela, the Cathedral clock tower, in Praza de Quintana.

One last look at the Cathedral spires before bed, from the skylight.