Camino Primitivo - Etapa 4, Campiello to Berducedo

16.4.2013

Pola de Allande route

27km

Herminia - proprietor of Casa Herminia albergue/grocery/café/bar/restaurant in Campiello - and her husband, on the morning of day four, as we were heading out. She, the alberque, the dinner and breakfast (28€ for a bed and both meals), and the comeraderie were wonderful. At dinner (made by Herminia: pan carne fresca, potato-chorizo-verza soup, octopus with boiled potatoes, grilled lamb and red peppers, rice pudding, and bottles of spring water and local red wine) immediately upon arrival, I met four retired Spanish men and a retired Swede who were my evening companions - I preferred to walk alone - for the next five days.

A lovely, foggy departure from Campiello

And as I gained elevation and the fog burned off, the snow-capped Cantabrian Mountains.

Here the way splits for about 17km. The Hospitales route leaves civilization entirely, making a gradual ascent around and over the mountains, and passes the ruins of three medieval pilgrim hospitals. The La Pola route passes through the usual variety of villages and towns, including Pola de Allande, before making a direct ascent of Puerto del Palo (1147m). I chose La Pola. With a total ascent of 990m and total descent of 800m, this was the most physically gruelling day.

The Way, between Borres and La Mortera.

There also was much completed new infrastructure in Asturias, including a couple km of nice gravel walk paths when the Camino followed the road.

Individuals still contribute to the Camino infrastructure.

 

A burro in La Mortera.

Pola de Allande.

After Pola de Allande, headed toward Puerto del Palo.

Looking back from near Puerto del Palo summit.

On the summit. 7.4km to Berducedo.

Horses and heather on Puerto del Palo.

After a steep, rocky 1.4km descending trail, the way became much more comfortable, mostly. 

I wonder why there are so many stories of witches in the woods in this part of the country?