Sunday, May 19, 2013

Santiago de Compostela

27.4.2013

I spent an extra day to rest, explore and enjoy Santiago, and wished immediately that I had longer. It quickly became one of my favorite places I ever have visited, and before I left, I was eager to return.

The Cathedral in early morning, from my room, after dawn's torrential rains had passed. 


Seminario Mayor.


Praza de Cervantes.


The Cathedral, Azabachería façade, from Praza da Inmaculada.


Rainbow behind Palacio de Rajoy (Casa do Concello), from Praza do Obradoiro.


Berenguela (the Cathedral clock tower) from Praza da Quintana.


Palacio de Rajoy (Casa do Concello)


Porta Santa (the Holy Door) on Praza da Quintana. At top, Santiago and his disciples, Athanasius and Theodore. Flanking the door, sculptures of 24 apostles and prophets (which originally were in the medieval stone choir of the Cathedral).

 
Camino way marker 0, in the middle of Praza do Obradoiro.


Entrance to a little church on Rúa da Caldeiraía where I stopped in while looking for a good place for a cafe con leche. Santiago rises a little late on Saturday morning.


And then I found a perfect cafe spot, Cerverceria Rúa Bella, on Rúa Nova.


The view across Rúa Nova.


Rúa Nova.




Praza do Toural.


La Iglesia de Santa María Salomé (12th century).



At noon, I attended the pilgrim's mass at the Cathedral, because I had arrived in town the day before after the mass had ended. There were two surprises. First, I was expecting to see the Botafumeiro - when the giant censor (between the columns to the left in the first photo below) is swung through the transepts (the frame from which it is suspended when swinging is in the second photo below) - but they did not swing it; I learned later that it only is used during the regular mass on particular holy days, or if arranged in advance (and for a fee). But the mass was so lovely and moving that I really was not even disappointed about the Botafumeiro, particularly given the second surprise. I did not know that the priest reads off the number of pilgrims who have received their Compostela since the previous day's mass, and he notes the places from which they came. I wept again when I heard, "Un peregrino desde los Estados Unidos y Alemania" - I was the only one from the US (nationality) and Germany (residence).




One last visit to Praza do Obradoiro after dinner.

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