Camino Primitivo - Etapa 12, Lavacolla to Santiago de Compostela

26.4.2013

12.3km

Medieval pilgrims used to stop in the river at Lavacolla to bathe before their arrival in Santiago (the name of the town translates "wash scrotum"). I washed all my parts, though not in the river, and headed out with mixed feelings for the final, short day of my Camino.

Un peregrino asturiana

Between Lavacolla and Monte de Gozo.

Capilla de San Marcos, leaving Monte de Gozo. The last town, and final sello (pilgrim credencíal stamp) before Santiago.

Sculpture of medieval pilgrims, near Capilla de San Marcos, hailing their first glimpse of Santiago. The three little spires off the left elbow of the front pilgrim are Santiago Cathedral, 4km away.

Pavement way marker in the new part of Santiago. It is a long walk back through the centuries to medieval Santiago.

Rúa Ruela de Ánimas

Capela das Ánimas (Chapel of the Souls), completed in 1784. Financed by donations for the souls in Purgatory (ergo, the bas relief on the façade).

The way I entered, along Rúa da Acibechería and across Praza da Inmaculada, goes down broad stone stairs through a Gothic passageway that emerges into Praza do Obradoiro, where the Cathedral stands. I crossed the square, and stood here, beneath the arcade of the Casa do Concello, looking at the Cathedral and weeping.

Ascending to the Cathdral entrance.

I sat here in the nave for a long time.

One of the apse chapels, with the cross of the Caballeros de la Orden de Santiago on the shell.

The tomb of Santiago.

Santiago Matamoros in the transept.

Papal plaque above Santiago Matamoros.

Doorway of the Colexio de San Xerome, on Praza do Obradoiro.

Rùa de Raiña.

View of the Cathedral from the skylight of my excellent little 38€ attic room at Pension Badalada. When the bells rang, it sounded like I was in the belfry.

Praza das Platerías.

Courtyard off Rùa do Franco.

 

My street, Rúa de Xelmírez.

My guidebook said most pilgrims find themselves drawn back to Praza do Obradoiro and the Cathedral again and again, and that certainly was the case for me. 

Berenguela, the Cathedral clock tower, in Praza de Quintana.

One last look at the Cathedral spires before bed, from the skylight.